Custom Concept Mystique Comission

"Who am I? That, my dear, is an excellent question. Though not one easily answered." ~Raven Darkholme


This was my first NON friend commission for a ML legend style fig. The person wanted the modern mystique featured below form her stand alone series ( which i have all the frist run of cause it's awesome and she is a rad character who has long been over do to be used correctly...).



I always thought her old white outfit had kinda' outlived its usefullness...as well as that bowl hair cut.

So, I was given the task of taking a ML domino base and making it a mystique by swapping out a blackwidow upper torso from a HML. I was provided a good amount of fodder base materiales from the client. Including guns, an amazing belt, hands, a knife and sheath and a couple heads as well as a package of revoltech joints. ( as well as some gift fodder which is always appreciated :] )

After some back and fourth with the client on what he wanted and what I thought we could/should do we came up with the idea of a concept approach to the modern mystique. He wanted the middrift look the belt modded to hold the knife and its sheath. A resculpted Domino head to fit mystique and Xmen xtream Rouge hair. I suggested a chicks leather jacket sculpted onto her since dominos shoulders look like a jacket. Also on the left arm is a indentation were I would sculpt her trade mark, The skull. The client at this point said basically go nuts. I agreed to run all ideas by him and so far he has loved it all. SO let's get started!

This is the black widow top I dremeled away the arm joints to get revoltechs in them.
Same goes for the neck. Take note of the left shoulder the "patch" will go their.

I cut her open on the bottom so I could re-adjust her to match the lower half I am attaching her to.

My next task was making the domino wast rotate, as she only had an ab crunch. I used my dremel to cut it in half and then sanded it so later I could sculpt over it to make it look like a bare belly. I also took out the knee joints and filled them with sculpt.
I used a magnet to attach the torso to the lower half.


This was my first mock up to see what the proportions would be like and obviously her torso is a little long. The upper half will be attached by a magnet as well.


A big step in putting revoltechs in is filling the previous space left by the hing joint system. Just a shot of everything filled in.

The next thing I did was measure the arms with the Revoltechs provided by the client in. They were Extremely long. I mean she would have fit into a Kohta Hirano book perfectly! But thats not what I was going for here.

So I first had to shorten her forarms then the back where it meets the elbow.
Then I went about making the revoltech receiver joints.

we ended up with this. More dremeling and fine tuning is needed at this point, but you get the idea.

 The next move was dremeling out the knee/ leg joints to receive the revoltech joints. This is the Knee on the shin. I ended up deciding to go much MUCH lower when her legs ended up looking freackishly out of proportion.
 this is the Knee on the thigh.
 Another shot of dremeling down. Its a slow process of making a semi-circle

 The next thing I did was use acetone to remove the paint form dominos head and sculpting ears in place so when I re-attach the hair they peek out a bit.

I also am going to sculpt some fuller lips on her since its just not right for mystique to not be pouty.


 These are the double jointed knees from revoltech/assemble borg.
  As  you can see in the background I had to cut off the part i was building and start over on the shins. they were just TO long.


 Now what you see here is again the rough RE mock up with the joints in. Just seeing if they can support any weight, and so I can gauge if I needed to make the joint receivers any deeper. Also pictured is the belt the client sent. Its a amazing belt.


The belt is removable and uses a peg system. Pretty awesome. So in order for it to be mystique it needs a giant honking skull on it. I opted to not sculpt one but instead cut it off the mystique sash I had form the ML Legends Mystique the client provided. I sanded the belt clasp down and then simply cut off the skull sanding the back and applied it with crazy glue.
 I think it turned out pretty Bad Ass. The belt still comes off as well.
It will be painted silver or bronze later based on what the client wants.

Next step was the client wanted the knife sheath glued to the belt. Although capable of doing this, I thought it would be cooler to do something else. And the client agreed. So I took some small rear earth magnets I had laying around and dremeled out holes for them and glued them in. I got these magnets at the local comic shop/hobby store. but I usually get mine From K&J magnetics do to their wildly advanced selection! ( their a sponsor on this page! check them out on the right hand side!)


Next up was the fact that the sheath was not what I wanted it to look like. I dremeld off the front details and then set about sculpting a clasp for it. I did this the same way I did for Snake Eyes custom ninja sword. I laid out a small amount of sculpt on a wetted work surface. Then I went about flattening it out, trimming and flattening again until I got the desired diameter I wanted.

 For this to work you need the work surface to be VERY wet as well as the blade and sculpt. Just remember to apply water frequently and you should be fine.

 This is about the thickness I wanted. now to cut out the shape I want and maybe flatten/ clean up a tiny bit.

 This is what we are left with after all my cutting away.

 To get it off without completly destroying it, liberally wet the knife and the surrounding area and carefully start prying the piece up, bit by bit, till all of it is separated form the work surface. If it was slightly damaged thats fine. You are about to adhere it to the object at this point, so any small fix's can be done here. you could alternately just smooth sculpt over the surface and shape it that way. I just prefer this way personally.

 The finished project! It will be painted black and get a buckle sculpted onto it as well.

a comparison shot to show the size and stature of her scale next to a Electra on a X-32 lower half and a LCBH Ann O'Brain.

This is the magnet system that keeps her torso attached to the lower half.

Hair has been glued on.
Making the rolled up sleeve's also to help cover the revoltch ball joint




A shot of the before and after. (the rightt and left) Lots of dremeling and applying glue to tighten the joint up. 

After lots of back and foruth, I finally got them to the right size. the arms and legs gave me a lot of headaches. Proportions did not want to match up but, I finally have them about right here.



 They are still a bit long but, I actually like this length. The torso still has to be shortened.
A full shot from the front.

 Since I had most of the proportions close it was time for some detailing. I dremeled a spot for her trade mark skull hair pice.
Then dremeled out the shoulder pad for my skull logo.


 I sculpted both of these by first making a small orb of sculpting material, then pressing them into place and working them out form their. Letting them set up half way then adding detail.



All in all, I was pretty pleased with the outcome here. As was the client.


 
another scale comparison.


On the next nipple puckering episode of Automtauntaun!

"THE FOOD OF THE GODS!"



Custom Snake Eyes Concept Figure

"He gave up."
"He never gives up."
~The Baroness and Storm Shadow


Last we saw this figure he was just in the beginning stages. A LOT of progress has occured since then and I documented as much as I could! He is on track to be finished this month. Depending on work, a 5K I'm running and the training it entails and you know... trying to have a life.


I covered how to make his removable mask in my "custom removable mask tutorial", so I'm not going to cover that again.


After making the first removable mask I set about making shoulder pads. My plan was to make the arms sleeved instead of the bare look the figure has. I started by Dremeling out a divot to fill with sculpt to make the shoulder pads.


I was heavily influenced by the Snake Eyes: Resolute look.


I waited for it to half-set (about an hour and a half) and then used the sculpting knife to cut out the square pattern, let it set a little more and then lightly rubbed it down with water using my fingertip, applying almost no pressure. I just wanted to smooth it over and give the appearance of quilted cushioning.


Next was a custom machete. I looked at a lot of variations until I found something that struck my fancy. This was a G.I. Joe knife as a base completly sculpted over and sanded with 1,500 wet sandpaper called Black Ice. Holes were made with a Dremel drill bit.

Another thing that inspired me was Null from Metal Gear Portable Ops (Also known as Gray Fox/ Cyber Ninja). The cyber ninja is one of those super cool ninja (modern) archetypes. And Null and Snake Eyes had a lot in common: silence, uzis and swords.


One of the next things I did was start making the custom weapons. A Kusanagi style sword, a grass cutter. Much like the blade of Zatoichi (I am a super huge fan of the legend of the blind masseuse.) It's the sword from a ML Blade shaved down.

A custom sheath made from electrical tape and crazy glue. (Tutorial still in production. Sorry I  know I have been promising this but, I lost ALL my photos and have been doing it all over.)
and a custom uzi made form a Toybiz 1990's Punisher toy uzi.


After I made sure the sword fit I filled one open end with sculpt to start the cap of the sheath. I wetted the blade and kept it in as I sculpted so the blade would fit snugly. once done i removed it so it wouldn't dry to the blade.


While the sheath tip is drying we will work on the uzi parts. The tips for the uzi start off as a soft ball of sculpt.


 Flattened into a round disc.



Then cut into halves. Now we just wait for them to set so we can sand them and attach them.



 A shot from the side and from the front at an angle to show what the placement looks like after they dried. Before I attached them I sanded them on the bottom and the rounded tops with hard grit, then smooth grit once it got to a place I liked to even it out.


 Now back to the sword sheath. First I wetted the work surface. I took my sculpt and wetted it, then smoothed it out with the flat of a sculpting blade, but really any blade will do. Pressing down and applying even pressure the whole time is important.


 I then cut the sides and re-wetted, and smoothed it pressing down well applying even pressure, Repeat the process till you get the desired outcome.


This is the thickness, or rather, thinness that I wanted. So I cut the sides off to make a long band.


Then I wetted, smoothed and used the flat of my blad to make it flat.


Then, VERY CAREFULLY apply more water all around the base and to the blade, then gently pry the piece up.


Next figure out which side you want the seam on. I always put mine on whatever the back or least used side of an object is so if I can't make it completely disappear, it at least isn't super obvious. Once you do that, place the middle of the strip on the sheath. Using the knife carefully press one side down. Then press in the opposite direction till you have a small overlap. If it dosen't overlap don't worry. You can fill it in later. At this point, if it overlaps, trim it before you smooth it down.


Don't worry if their is bulging, as there will be sanding later. The only thing I did do was tamp the part that meets the sheath to be even with the flat of the blade well it was wet. You cannot sand against the sheath as it would ruin the nice ribbed texture.


Once everything is in position just let it sit. I did not smooth the bottom as later this will get filled and sanded.


Back to the uzi. After the glue has set, give it one more application on the sides, fronts and backs and let that set. Then I went about sanding them and making sure any unevenness was corrected for that nice even shot down the middle. 


I put the ribbing on the side of the frame on next. I admit this was a bit big, but it was my first attempt... smaller next time. I basically made two tubes and then smoothed them on with water. I did have to sand them a bit.


That little "nub" on the top of the uzi (part of the slide and bolt I think) were a challenge. I wanted it to appear close to the frame but as if it were floating. So I snipped a small pice of paper clip for the peg, and rolled up a tiny orb of sculpt and flattened it. Then let it set.


While waiting for that to dry, I Dremeled out the shell ejector. You can see the crude grip I did. I plan to re-do this later now that I know a lot more about sculpting as this figure was one of my first. I learned a lot making him. (Also note I wet sanded the frame and "ears" so their was as little a gap as could be.)


As you can see the little peg never worked out. It was either too high, or when I shortened it it didn't stay glued in place. In the end this looked more natural as well.


 Before getting back to the sheath, a diversion dealing with the sheath. I plan to attach it to the belt since it's a straight blade. I took a rare earth magnet and glued it into this hole. I plan to sculpt over it but as you can imagine, sculpting with metal over the surface of a magnet is kinda tricky. I will post a shot of the sculpt after I get a proper plastic tool.


The next steps are all about your taste so I omitted them. I wanted to do a straight blade cap, but couldn't get it looking quite right, so I went with this. Then I painted it black and dry brushed it silver till i got the desired effect. After that, one final coat of black wash (diluted).


 I used the same technique for the sword sheath end as with this clasp for the sheath. I just made this not as thin so I could use a sculpting blade to edge in the quilted pattern. I also shaved the hilt of the blade ML handle down and sculpted over it.


 I sculpted the handle by letting it set almost completely then carving in my best impression of wood patterns. I then painted a bright ocher yellow base, bright red dry brushing and then lots and lots of layers of brown dry brushing in alternating dark brown and light brown. This little circlet at the top of the hilt will be gold or silver, not sure yet.


I then painted the clasp black and Dremeled a small hole in it.


I then took some sculpt and again, you guessed it, rolled it into a ball. BUT this time I left it as an orb.

 

I then painted it silver and washed it with a diluted black wash.

 Next time on the next heart racing episode of automatauntaun!


"SOMETHING WITTY THIS WAY COMES!"